A dreamy four days exploring beautiful Tuscany

Written By Dan

TLDR: If Italy is on your bucket list and you’ve never been, then you have to start with Tuscany - don’t quote me, but Italy must have been invented in Tuscany! From the rolling hills to timeless Italian towns, world-famous landmarks and unmissable hot springs, there is so much to see and do, and that’s before we get to the FOOD!

GETTING THERE:

Flights from the UK to Tuscany aren’t among the best serviced routes but are frequent enough and shouldn’t break the bank. We flew into Pisa, but you could also look into Florence and Bologna as options. The option many suggest is to travel by rail - this is something we looked into ahead of time - and in contrast to the UK, rail travel in Italy looks affordable and convenient for exploring an area like Tuscany. However, if you’re anything like us, we like keeping things flexible and less around a schedule. We hired a car and would recommend that anyone else do the same if they want to see all the sights and uncover those hidden gems.

WHERE WE STAYED:

An hour from Florence, our base for three nights was the beautiful Hotel Poderi Arcangelo just outside the popular San Gimignano. This place is hands down one of the most memorable hotels we've ever stayed. Surrounded by vineyards, rolling hills and views of historic San Gimignano in the distance - wherever you turn, there was an epic view. The rooms were a great size and had a handy kitchenette. The decor was traditional but comfortable and only added to the ambience. The outside space was perfect, with plenty of tables and chairs that we used each evening to sit out for food and drinks. The pezzo di resistenza was the fabulous infinity pool. The hotel had its own vineyard, and wine was available from the on-site shop, which was great quality and extremely affordable. Light snacks were available too, and more formal dining in the evening. We ate in the panoramic restaurant on the first night, which comprised of a four-course set menu - with each course served to all tables at the same time, this created a great atmosphere. If you’re looking for a hotel in the middle of Tuscany we cannot recommend this place enough. ❤️

Our Trip - 21st August to 25th August

😎 While we did a self-drive, there are day trip options like this one, which may better suit certain travellers 😎

Day 1: Evening Arrival

We arrived late into Pisa (partly because of a security incident at East Midlands and partly because late flights are always the cheapest!) - we stopped at a local hotel only 10 minutes away from the airport. The Pisa Tower Plaza was lovely, the rooms were spacious and clean, and we took full advantage of the pool with a morning dip (or a dive bomb from the kids), which was a highlight of the hotel - a great space we wish we had a little longer to enjoy.

Day 2: Pisa, Lucca, Lari

Our first full day started with Pisa - 5 minutes down the road, there’s a huge car park in the centre that you can not miss! We travelled in the height of summer (August) and never had issues with parking! They are generally well signposted as the historic towns and cities all have ZTL (zones of restricted circulation), which prohibit vehicular access. We were told by many before visiting - other than seeing the leaning tower, there isn’t that much to Pisa and not to go out the way to visit - but as we were close, we couldn’t miss seeing this impressive landmark with our own eyes! Although the car park was quiet, Pisa was not! And despite getting there early, we encountered large numbers all trying to get that classic selfie holding the leaning tower! We grabbed an ice cream and headed back to the car!

It’s entirely possible to spend a half or full day in Pisa, our recommendations if doing so would be:

  • Do a tour of the Leaning Tower

  • Do a tour of the Cathedral

  • Walk the impressive Pisa walls

  • Stroll through the narrow shopping streets and soak in the atmosphere

Half an hour north, we arrived in Lucca - an authentically beautiful town which will always have a place in our hearts. It was our first taste of real Italy. The town has a large car park just a short walk outside the walls of the town. We headed through the winding streets trying to guess our way to the centre, narrow alleys flanked by very tall and old traditional buildings. The streets were so quiet, and not knowing the way was so much fun, just like a huge maze that you navigate on instinct! When you reach the centre, you are greeted with the Duomo San Martino - an 11th century cathedral, the architecture and facade is simply breath-taking - it was our first experience seeing something like this, and all 4 of us just stood in awe. The streets are abundant with small independent cafes, delicatessens, restaurants and cute, unpretentious eateries. We sat on a square and grabbed some pizza and drinks from pizzeria L.Pellegrini - the pizza was amazing, and we fed the family for £16 with wine! The rumours are true, the food in Italy is the best and it's also amazing value for money, win-win!

🙌 Best things to do in Lucca -

  • Walking or bike tour - Lucca’s walls are wide enough to walk or cycle along, offering fantastic views of the city.

  • Visit the Duomo di San Martino – Lucca’s stunning cathedral houses incredible artwork, including the Volto Santo, a revered wooden crucifix.

  • Indulge in local cuisine - traditional dishes, such as Tordelli (stuffed pasta) and Buccellato (sweet bread with raisins), or play it safe with classic Pizza!

🌟 Hidden Gem: To break up the drive to our accommodation, we decided to stop in the quaint village of Lari. Lari is a charming medieval village in the heart of Tuscany, known for its well-preserved castle, Castello dei Vicari. This hilltop town offers epic views of the surrounding countryside, winding cobblestone streets, and a rich history dating back centuries. One of the highlights of Lari is its artisanal food scene, particularly the famous Martelli pasta, which is still made using traditional methods.

After our day of exploring and soaking in the hot summer sun, we headed for our check-in at the Poderi Archangelo.

Day 3: Volterra, Monteriggioni and Siena

A 40-minute drive away were the stunning cobbled streets of Volterra. Set in an elevated position, the drive on winding roads was a real test treat. We parked in Parcheggio La Fortezza, which is around a 10-minute walk from the centre. disclaimer: The walk is not for the faint-hearted, featuring LOTS of steps! There may be better parking options, but as far as we could work out, it was free to park. Was the climb worth it? ABSOLUTELY!

Volterra is everything we love about Italy. We sat out on the Piazza XX Settembre and had an Italian feast!
🌟 TOP TIP - just order pizza, pasta and Caprese salad everywhere you go, and you'll be in food heaven! The streets of Volterra are exactly how you'd imagine a centuries-old, historic Tuscan town - a seamless blend of Etruscan, medieval, and Renaissance structures that have stood the test of time. Sit in one of the many street bars and cafes and watch the world go by or indulge and buy some homemade local limoncello (like we did). Do not miss this town!

🙌 Best things to do in Volterra -

  • Visit the Roman Theater – Dating back to the 1st century BC, these well-preserved ruins offer a glimpse into Volterra’s ancient past.

  • Eat and drink like the locals - check out this cocktail experience with food

  • Explore the Etruscan Museum (Museo Etrusco Guarnacci) – Home to one of Italy’s most important collections of Etruscan artifacts, including the famous "Shadow of the Evening" statue.

  • Walk Through the Piazza dei Priori – The heart of Volterra, this medieval square is surrounded by historic buildings, including the stunning Palazzo dei Priori.

  • See the Medici Fortress – A powerful reminder of Florence’s rule over Volterra, this fortress dominates the skyline and offers impressive views.

  • Admire the Volterra Cathedral (Duomo di Volterra) – A beautiful Romanesque cathedral with intricate frescoes and a stunning gilded ceiling.

Siena, Siena, Siena, beautiful Siena! 100% the most interesting city I've ever visited. We were recommended to park at San Francesco Parcheggi - a car park at the bottom of the hill with an escalator taking you up to the city centre. The buildings were so tall and compact that even in the height of summer, some streets felt dark and moody; it made for a great ambience. We, of course, had to grab a seat outside one of the small hidden bars in the secret alleyways for a Campari spritz with views of the Palazzo del Campo. Be sure to check out the Santa Maria, which was once a hospital and is now a museum, the architecture is like nothing you've ever seen.

After leaving Siena, we made a short but memorable stop in Monteriggioni, a perfectly preserved medieval fortress town that felt like a movie set! Encircled by massive stone walls with 14 watchtowers, this tiny village offers great views over the Tuscan countryside.

We strolled through its quiet, cobbled streets, and really enjoyed the unique atmosphere and ambiance. The Piazza Roma, the heart of the town, was the perfect spot for a quick coffee while admiring the charming medieval architecture, and escaping the heat! The kids enjoyed walking along a section of the castle walls, where we could take in the vistas stretching for miles.

Though small, Monteriggioni left a big impression—like stepping back in time for a brief but magical moment before continuing our journey.

🌟 Top tip: Supermarkets in Italy are next level! While in Siena, we used the Carrefour so we could prepare food to eat on the terrace back at base. We picked up fresh pasta dishes, olives, cured meats, cheese, breads and fruit for a fraction of what we’re used to in the UK.

🙌 Best things to do in Siena:

  • Visit Piazza del Campo – One of Italy’s (probably Europe’s) most beautiful squares, home to the famous Palio horse race and the stunning Palazzo Pubblico.

  • Climb Torre del Mangia – a tall bell tower offering views over Siena’s rooftops and the Tuscan countryside.

  • Explore Siena Cathedral (Duomo di Siena) – marvel at the Gothic architecture, intricate marble floors, stunning frescoes, and the Piccolomini Library.

  • Visit Santa Maria della Scala – Once a medieval hospital, this complex now houses fascinating museums and underground tunnels.

  • Wander Through the Contrade – Siena is divided into 17 historic neighborhoods (contrade), each with its own traditions, symbols, and museums.

Day 4: Saturnia Hot Springs

This one was a big drive from our base - around 2 hours and 20 minutes - made more like 3 hours - when Dan seemingly navigated to the middle of nowhere! If you take only one thing from this guide, use what3words (///doughy.foolish.buckets) to get to the right place!

We woke super early to set off so we could arrive before the crowds (or at least try!). If you've seen the photos of Saturnia hot springs and thought, “the water can’t be that blue”, the pictures are not deceiving - the water is milky blue and the perfect bathing temperature.

🌟 Our top tips for visiting Saturnia Hot Springs 🌟 

  • Get there early and beat the crowds - for two reasons -

    • Firstly, less people make for better photo opportunities!

    • Secondly, you can have your pick of the best bathing spots! We got there around 9am and were by no means the first there but by the time we left around 11 it was noticeably busier.

  • Take water shoes! We were advised to take water shoes for the kids to protect their feet; what we didn't do is take water shoes for our own feet! Under the water are rough, small rocks. Honesty, if its water shoes, flip flops, or old trainers, you'll be thankful for them.

  • Bug spray! Advice for the whole of Italy in general, but the springs are in the middle of farm land and there are bugs about!

  • Don’t take valuables. Bags are left on the side unattended, and while I’m sure uncommon, there is the risk of theft.

  • Take coins for the car park. The car park is a 5-minute walk and is purpose-built for visiting the hot springs - it may have changed but it was cash only on our visit.

Saturnia Springs is a free (minus the car park) natural attraction - it’s not serviced or attended in anyway, there are no lockers, amenities or staff connected with it. The hot springs are definitely worth a visit; they truly are beautiful and like nothing we’ve seen or experienced before.

Day 5: Check out - Florance - Pistoia - Livorno

Our last day in Tuscany was a whirlwind of art, history, and coastal charm as we made our way from Florence to Pistoia to Livorno before heading to the airport for our late flight home.

We started the day in Florence; we were quite overwhelmed at first by the sheer scale of the city - we felt as though we’d visited lesser know, off the beaten path towns and cities up to this point, but seeing hoarded of tourists on guided tours, shuttle golf buggies ferrying people from one part to the next and more souvenirs than we knew what to do with, its was a whistle-stop tour which allowed us to see, and hear enough to want us to return. A quick stroll past the Duomo and a last espresso in Piazza della Signoria felt like the perfect handshake to this iconic city. We’ll definitely be back.

Next, we stopped in Pistoia, a hidden gem often overlooked by travellers. Pistoia is a medieval town that boasts stunning architecture without the crowds of Florence. We wandered through Piazza del Duomo, visited the Cathedral of San Zeno, and admired the intricate marble facades. Pistoia’s charming streets, authentic trattorias (and lack of people) made for a relaxing midday stop.

Our final destination was Livorno, a lively port city with a very different vibe from the historic towns of Tuscany. Parking in Livorno was probably the most difficult of the entire trip, but eventually we managed down by the port. Here, we took a short walk along the Terrazza Mascagni, enjoying the sea breeze and views over the Ligurian Sea. We enjoyed a light bite before we made our way to the airport.

As our plane took off, we looked back on an unforgettable and our first Italian adventure - each town leaving its own unique impression. From medieval hilltops to Renaissance masterpieces and coastal escapes, this trip was the perfect mix of culture, relaxation, and discovery.

Dan